Daily Photo album

Background

Malawi has a population of 10.6 million people, with a growth rate of 1.5% per annum, and with about 85% of the population living rurally. The capital is Lilongwe, although the commercial centre is Blantyre, in the south. All of the African population are of Bantu origin, with the main ethnic group being the Chewa, especially in the south and central areas. 75% of the population are Christian, with 20% Muslim.

The Country is some 900 km long, and between 80 - 150 km wide. The Great Rift Valley passes straight through Malawi, and, aided by Lake Malawi (the third largest lake in Africa) this makes it is one of the most beautiful African countries. The people are as famous for their friendliness.

Malawi became independent of the United Kingdom in 1964, with the first elected  Prime Minister being Hastings Banda. As is so often the case in Africa, this moved gradually into dictatorship.  In 1994, the Country had its first multiparty elections, and under President Bakili Muluzi has partly liberalized and built some personal freedoms. In 1999, there were Presidential and Parliamentary elections, with Muluzi again winning - although proof of real change is still "in the works".  Nevertheless, the market is liberalizing and things are moving forward.  Many problems date from the Banda times, and people are still , to quote the Lonely Planet Guide " in a state of bewilderment".

Whilst the Country was essentially self sufficient in the early 1970's, today it is still one of the poorest countries in the world. GNP per capita is only US$190, and GDP is US$900 on a parity purchasing power basis. Whilst exports and imports are in rough balance, external debt is US$2.9 billion. Malawi receives over US$420 million foreign aid annually. Inflation was 29.5% in 2000. Tobacco accounts for 70% of Malawi's exports. Tea and sugar make up another 20%, and Hydroelectricity exports are also important.

Infant mortality is 132 per 1000 live births (one of the worst in the world), with an average of just over 5 children born to each woman. On the positive side, immunization rates are over 90% for 1 year old children. Maternal mortality is 620 per 100,000 live births - again one of the worst levels in the world. Access to safe drinking water is 57% across the Country. Male literacy is 72%, and 62% for women. (UNICEF data)

The total death rate from all causes (22.8 per 1000 people per year) puts Malawi at 5th place on the world's worst league table. Life expectancy for men and women is only about 37 years old, which places Malawi 188 out of 190 countries - with only Zimbabwe and Mozambique being worse, according to Microsoft Encarta.

In 1999, AIDS related deaths in Malawi were estimated at 70,000.  In 1998, 26% of pregnant women in urban areas tested positive for HIV. Today, the estimate is that about 800,000 adults are living with HIV / AIDS, 16% of the population. There are about 275,000 children under 15 still alive who have been orphaned by AIDS.

Arrival in Lilongwe

So, the journey began.  The British Airways flight (BA65) left London via Nairobi.  I was able to meet two of my fellow travellers on the plane - Rob and Marvin.  Rob had been to Malawi before with Save the Children, but like me, it was Marvin's first trip. First impressions on landing were of a green and lush land - although we later learnt that last year was a  terrible crop, so there was much hope for a better one in 2002. Passing through customs was an interesting experience, as two flights came together. The rest of our group were on the other one from Johannesburg.

We were met by Justin Opuku, Save's resident Director.  Justin has twelve years of experience with the Agency, originally hailing from Ghana, and arriving in Malawi via many other African countries.  His smile and sense of what is right became an instant memory for all of us.

No one wanted to waste time with lunch at the Capital Hotel, so we bundled into a van to visit the markets of Lilongwe. First stop was to see some of the local handicrafts, laid out under protective tarpaulin outside the main post office. Some of the cast of characters can be seen in the first photo album. Whilst a fun time bargaining was had by all, not for the last time we noted that almost one in seven of the people around us would be dying of Aids. A terrible statistic, brought home by meeting mothers and their young children - the mothers hardly older than my youngest daughter.

Economic truths

We went on to the old market, guided by Robert, a new member of the Save Staff. It is a bustling sprawl of people, trucks, goods on blankets on the ground, stores of all kinds and folks just "hanging out". People were usually excited to have their photographs taken, especially when they could see the instant replay in the back of the digital camera - although once or twice Mick was asked (relatively politely!) not to snap. Again, the humour in the local people was very evident, yet there also seemed a resignation and sometimes a tinge of suppressed aggression in some. And it was rather funny to be told to "move out of the road" by a traffic cop - everyone was doing it, but we seemed to be a particular problematic set of jay walkers!

At US$900 Parity Purchasing Power per head year, this is a very poor country indeed - not least as there are clearly some well to do families in town, which only makes the average income deceptively high. Still, a Carlsberg at  35 Kwacha (about 50c) seemed a  welcome afternoon refreshment.

One picture that Mick took will haunt.  It is the one above of the young couple. A young man wanted his photo taken with his even younger girlfriend.  Superficially just a "happy snap" - but somehow this summed up the relationship of the sexes, with the men dominating and the girls having little choice. Whilst not prevalent in Malawi, there is a belief in some Countries that having a young girl can cure HIV - which only makes the cycle worse, of course.

The earth is very red, and the overcast skies gave a deep hue all around. Lots to ponder, even on this first afternoon.

The NGO scene

Back at the hotel, Justin had arranged a very gracious reception with many of the local NGO heads, some Government leaders and the Lilongwe Save office staff. It is always a privilege to meet the people who actually do the hard work that we just talk about, day in and day out. 

Several made short informal speeches on their work.  Many themes -  the need for better and better education seemed the most pervasive thought from all. Much has been done in the past 2 / 3 years to better arm the population to combat HIV, but even more needs to be done. An inspiring group, and a fun evening.

Save the Children
Save the Children COPE stories
Malawi Journal
Malawi Journal part 2
Malawi Journal part 3
Malawi Journal part 4
Malawi Journal part 5
Malawi Journal part 6
Mozambique Journal
Mozambique Journal part 2
Mozambique Journal part 3
Reflections and articles
HIV / AIDS in Africa
Advisory Board Biographies
Advisory Board Visit Agenda
'net links to Malawi & Mozambique
Photo Albums

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 Last updated September 18, 2004

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